I started off just wanting to push the protective cover over the starter switch wire harness back into the switch housing. It turns out the the wire bundle was routed around the clutch and fast idle cable. So I figured I may as well pull apart the control for a clean and adjust.
I think this was caused by the covering shrinking over time. I couldn’t move the covering up enough to force it into the hole. I notice that the harness was routed in front of the idle advance, clutch and throttle cables, rerouting could give me a few inches. The easiest way to reroute was to pull the cables. So while I was there I service those controls as well.
Pulling the clutch cable is quite simple. First get a block of wood and a screw driver. Pry the clutch lever above the transmission and block it up. This allows you to keep the clutch lever pulled back, then you can push the barrel cable end down through the bottom of the lever. The cable can then be withdrawn from the clutch lever housing. One of the common failure points on the K-Bike clutch is right at the barrel. Over time it loses lubrication and starts to fatigue the cable end. Grease the barrel before you reassemble the cable end. I also pulled the lever completely out and cleaned and lubricated the lever pivot. It needed it. This didn’t result in a marked difference in the feel of the clutch, but I have already broken a clutch cable due to the lubrication problem, I don’t want to do that again.
The idle advance cable is a little trickier, but still simple. Pop the “choke” cap of and remove the really large slot screw from the idle advance lever. Be careful not to lose the little metal collar that provides the detents. The cable it hold into the lever and can be withdraw from the housing after removing the lever.
In order to remove the throttle cable you need to remove the switch housing on the right handle bar (we want to do that anyway to restuff the wire bundle). The is a small phillips head screw beneath the switch housing. Then remove the two hex head screws holding the master cylinder to the right grip. Slide the master cylinder an eight of an inch or so away from the grip. This will give you enough room to get the throttle cable out. Then remove the screw on the top throttle cover. While you are here clean and lubricate this. Adjust the throttle cable after you reassemble it.
So now that the cable was rerouted I found that I still didn’t have enough service loop to get the cable housing into the switch. Further down in front of the forks that covering is badly split. I cut completely through that to give me enough movement. I wrapped the split area with friction tape. It is difficult to see even if you are looking for it.