Engine Preparation

My engine is from a 1998 Buick Riviera. After trying to source an engine locally for several months I finally found one in a yard in Stricker Brothers, in Ohio. The local yards tore the superchargers off the engines as soon as they hit the lot, and I didn’t feel like having to reassemble the supercharger to the engine with it’s $100 gasket and smelly oil. The engine arrived with a completely intact wiring harness which is unusual for scrap motors. as they usually disassemble with a torch and shears.

If your engine came with them, remove the power steering pump, AC pump or alternator (Brunton specifies a different alternator) After the unnecessary engine auxiliaries are removed install the Brunton supplied motor mounts. The engine mounts bolt to the block using 6 M12x1.25 25mm Grade 10.9 bolts.



Next remove the balance plate from the crankshaft. This is the best time to install the pilot bushing that came with your clutch kit. It is important that the pilot bushing be installed far enough in that the transmission input shaft can get all the way in. The pilot bushing should be recessed about a tenth of an inch. Once the pilot bushing is in place, install the flywheel (GM Part number 1257-6459) using the special GM flywheel bolts (GM Part Number 2450-5092). You will need an angle plate for this and they specify 11 ft-pounds and 50degrees. Now place the clutch plate using the clutch alignment tool, and bolt the pressure plate over the clutch. The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel using 6 M8x16 bolts.


The next step is to install the transmission on the engine. The transmission bolts to the block using 3 M12x1.75 25mm Grade 10.9 bolts, 1 M12x1.75×50 and 1 M12x1.75×60 (with nut). This is a delicate procedure and you really need to have a way to support the weight of the transmission while you are doing this. I prefer to use an engine hoist with rigging straps rather than a transmission jack because it is easier to reposition the transmission. Move the transmission up to the engine and lift until the input shaft appears appears to be in line with the center of the clutch. Now slowly move the transmission in and use the input shaft as a “feeler” to find the fingers on the pressure plate. Then the next stop should be against the clutch. Now feed the input shaft into the clutch spline with the input shaft against the edge of the spline. If you move the transmission around a little you should be able to feel the clutch splines on the tip of the input shaft. The next stop will be when the shoulder of the input shaft hits the clutch plate. Now maneuver the transmission to get the input shaft through the clutch spline. The reason to play this “touchy feely” game with the input shaft is so that you can feel what is going on. It is nearly impossible to line up a transmission and get it right in. This method lets you go in step by step with confidence. Once you have pushed the transmission in as far as you can check to make sure every thing is still lines up as square as possible. You will not be able to push the transmission all the way home because the clutch throwout spring will give too much resistance. So once you are close and the transmission is even you can install the 4 M12-1.75×30 and use them to pull the transmission in. At no time should you allow the weight of the transmission to rest on the input shaft.



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